Beautyknot ~ My Skin Care Diary

Sun Protection

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After having three major sunburns in young age, I don’t want to go through the “peeling” stage again. The first sunburn happened in a dazzling sunny school sport day, second one happened in a cloudy day for beach activities, and the last one was shaded by umbrella, watching a F1 race in the scorching hot weather (only uncovered part had been “baked”). Unfortunately, sunscreen is an alien word to me at that time. In fact, since my freckles developed in 11 years-old, I learnt from my brother’s encyclopedia that avoiding direct sunlight is crucial but due to young brigade’s activities, that wasn’t really practical but I’ll seek shade whenever I can. At 20s, I learnt from Olay TV ads that we need some SPF everyday (no surprise I loyally adopted their SPF Moisturizer for many years then) but sunscreen still a strong chemical ointment for me (in fact they are) that only needed for hiking and water-sports. After age 30, only I learnt about photo-aging, started wearing sunscreen then.

When all beauty and medical experts told you that sun protection is a must for skin health, prevent photo-aging and skin darkening, I just have to agree by raising both my hands and legs. Comments by few readers of Beautyknot had prompted me to write this article and I want to delicate this post to those who are quite new to sunscreen but wanted to be little more sun-smart. My fundamental concept, as well as the gathering of following information were indicated as link from various sources.

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Glossary  

 

UV (Ultraviolet) contains UVB (280~320nm), UVA-2 (320~360nm) and UVA-1 (360~400nm), together with UVC (100-280nm). UVC is the most dangerous but they are blocked out by the ozone layer, so they don’t reach the earth’s surface. The longer the UV wavelength, the greater ability to cause skin darkening and damaging. UVB induces sunburn, skin cancer, skin reddening and pain, while UVAs are responsible for wrinkling, pigmentation, loss of skin firmness and may be related to skin cancer with UVB.

 

Free-Radicals are atoms or a group of atoms with an odd number of electrons and can be formed when oxygen interacts with certain molecules. Once formed, it can start a chain of reaction like attack DNA or cell membrane, deplete collagen, causing skin lose its firmness and elasticity, slow down the cellular turnover…etc. Besides UV rays, other sources of free-radical included radiation, pollution, smoking, medication, stress, over exercising, deep-fried food…etc. Antioxidants can neutralize and stabilize free-radical.

Sunscreen (or sunblock) contains ingredients that provide at least certain degree of protection from sunburn and other damaging effects of the sun’s UV rays.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is measure of the time it takes the skin to burn. Depends on skin color, the fairer skin gets sunburn easier.

PA is rating system of UVA protection. The more plus sign, the higher protection against UVAs. 

PPD  (Persistent Pigment Darkening) is method of measuring UVA protection. The higher rating gives higher protection against UVAs. 

UV index is an international standard to measure of how strong the UV rays from the sun at a particular place on a particular day.

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Sunscreen Type

Generally two major types of sunscreen, either chemical or mineral. However, certain chemical sunscreen, such as Tinosorb M acts like both chemical and mineral sunscreens.

Chemical sunscreens

  • absorbs and disperse the UV rays
  • examples of chemical sunscreens: Polysilicone-15, Tinosorb, Mexoryl, Avobenzone, Benzophenone, Dioxybenzone, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Isopropylbenzyl Salicylate, …etc
  • normally leaves no or minimum white residue

 

Mineral sunscreens (a.k.a Physical-blocker)

  • reflect and scatter the UV rays
  • normally leaves white residue (those in nano form render sunscreens transparent instead of pasty white)
  • can be drying for drier skin condition
  • safer and non-irritating to sensitive skin.
  • mineral sunscreens: Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide

Learn more about individual sunscreen here.

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SPF Calculation

Assuming your unprotected skin takes 20 minutes to get sunburn when being in the sun (fair skin has less tolerance to sun compare to tan skin) and you wear sufficient amount of sunscreen SPF30.

Then the calculation is SPF30 x 20 minutes = 600 minutes = 10 hours. That means, theoretically you can withstand 10 hours in the sun without getting sunburn. In other word, the higher rating of SPF, PA or PPD gives marginal better protection.

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PA and PPD Conversion

I captured this picture from one of the beauty book, and I guess the conversion convinced some people turn to European sunscreens that usually have PPD10~35 for better UVA protection.

 

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Protection

No sunscreens block 100% UV rays. Hence, try to minimize direct sun exposure between 10am-4pm in a sunny day, stay under shade or wearing umbrella/cap/wide-brimmed hat/sunglasses when necessary. For information, white cotton T-shirt gives SPF5, wet white cotton T-shirt gives SPF3, i.e. wet clothing is less protective than dry clothing. The tighter fabrics weave, the better it blocks UV rays.

Wear sunscreen appropriately, such as…

Do

  • wear at least SPF30 for active outdoor activities
  • remove sunscreen thoroughly at the end of the day
  • use gentle or mineral sunscreen for baby and kid

Don’t

  • wear sunscreen at night
  • wear low SPF for insolation
  • use non-water-resistant sunscreen for water-sport

 

You may also note that not all days/locations are created equal, you can find out about UV index at a given time/location in your area. However, the UV index is more useful in assessing the risk of sunburn (UVB) and tends to underestimate UVA exposure. Hence, as far as photo-aging concern, sun protection should be taken seriously even low values of the UV index.

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Amount required

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Without applying sufficient amount, half amount of necessary sunscreen of SPF 50 can turn out to be SPF7.1. That’s very important to apply enough amount of sunscreen besides reinforce high SPF, PA and PPD.

Guideline from FDA, appropriate amount for desired protection is 2mg/cm2 (EU: 1.5mg/cm2), translates into 1/4-1/3 teaspoon for an average adult face. To be precisely, the 2mg/cm2 is for “average” adult build of height 5ft4in (163cm), and weight 150lb (68kg), with a 32 in (82cm) waist, that adult wearing a bathing suit covering the groin area should apply 29g (~1oz) evenly to the uncovered body area.

On the other hand, Australia standard is far stringent. For an adult, the recommended application is 5ml (approximately 1 teaspoon full) for each arm, leg, body front, body back and face (including neck and ears). That equates to a total of 35ml (approximately 7 teaspoons full) for a full body application.

The adequate amount should be estimated accordingly. For example, the estimated surface area for my face is roughly 516cm2. Based on the given formula, I need approximately 1.9g for face and neck. However, I normally take 1.5 months to finish a 30ml (1 fl.o.z) sunscreen, including occasionally reapply. Obviously I didn’t apply enough most of the time, but I didn’t expose to hours direct sunlight either.

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Application Sequence

Common practice is, apply sunscreen after skin care routine, however I read different opinion here that sunscreen should apply first, before skin care and makeup. Frankly, I never read any other experts mentioned about the efficacy of sunscreen can be interfered by next product, but I always read countless experts emphasize on penetration of harmful chemical sunscreens can risk our health and their say is strongly supported with convincing evidence. Studies show certain chemical sunscreens can trigger ROS when exposed to sunlight. Therefore, stick to those low absorption chemical sunscreen or safer formulation. Regardless chemical or mineral sunscreen, virtually none of them is safe if absorbed into skin.

Conversely, skin care is formulated to be more skin receptive (with all those penetration enhancers and solvents) in order to improve skin texture more aggressively, unless you’re ingredient specialist, else there are too many uncertainties to tell. For instance, that could be all good/bad ingredients are getting chance to be absorbed into skin with poor-formulated sunscreen. Or, wasting the high treatment potent ingredient of following product by applying sunscreen first if the sunscreen used will create a protective film on skin. Nevertheless, if the sunscreen is well-formulated and won’t penetrate into skin deep, then I can see the possibility to apply sunscreen first/alone (In fact, that’s what I did for body skin sometimes).  Furthermore, we need antioxidants, soothing and moisturizing properties to assist in achieving beautiful healthy skin. You can either apply skin care for that purposes prior to applying sunscreen, or your sunscreen is already containing these helpful ingredients.

In short, skin care ingredients such as soothing, moisturizing and antioxidant that don’t necessary to be absorbed deeply into skin dermis are best choice to be used together/after chemical sunscreen because they can work out well in upper skin. Minimize risk of skin irritation by avoiding complicated high treatment chemical sunscreen such as anti-aging and whitening.

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Safety Concerns

Chemical sunscreens

Certain chemical sunscreens pose higher risk to health than mineral sunscreens. For instance, Oxybenzone is high absorption through skin, high rates of allergic reactions, and growing concerns about hormone disruption. So, ensure the sunscreen is well-formulated to minimize the risk of penetration.

Mineral sunscreens

Nanotechnology of sunscreen ingredient is the prime concern. Studies show little to no zinc and titanium absorbs through the skin, and they provide relatively stable protection compared to the other sunscreens. However, zinc and titanium in spray or powder sunscreens aren’t recommended as inhalation of zinc and titanium particles is a concern that may have greater toxicity to skin and living environment. By convention, definition of nanotechnology included anything one or more external dimensions is in the size range 1 nm – 100 nm. EWG has advised the US Environmental Protection Agency and FDA to broaden its criteria to cover particles larger than 100 nanometers (nm) in at least one dimension because some larger particles may exhibit toxicity effects similar to smaller ones. (source)

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Realiable Sunscreen

 

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From the above table, you will get a clear overview how capable of those sunscreens filter UV wavelength. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find much detailed information about Mexoryl and Tinosorb.

From the above table, Avobenzone (320~400nm) gives full spectrum to UVAs, but it’s not photo-stable that break down into unknown chemicals when exposed to sunlight, especially in the presence of another active ingredient- Octinoxate, thus lose its sun protection potency and required frequent re-apply to ensure the protection. Most sunscreens are using Octocrylene to stabilize Avobenzone, but experts would still advise you to re-apply every two hours for continuous UV protection. In addition, uncoated mineral powders can degrade the efficacy of Avobenzone,  so avoid using these ingredients together.

Mexoryl SX (Ecamsule or Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) usually to be used together with Mexoryl XL (Drometrizole Trisiloxane) because they show synergistic effect in protection. Mexoryl is low skin penetration thus relatively safe. Mexoryl XL has peak absorption at 303nm and 344nm. Currently only Mexoryl SX is approved by FDA in US, however two hours of sunlight can degrade Mexoryl SX as much as 40% of this active ingredient. In most case, Mexoryl SX is formulated together with other sunscreens to increase its broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB) protection. (source)

Tinosorb on the other hand is photo-stable (remains stable in sunlight) and provides broad-spectrum protection from what I read here and here. Tinosorb also has low skin penetration. Tinosorb S (Bemotrizinol) is oil-soluble while Tinosorb M (Bisoctrizole, both chemical and mineral agents) is water-soluble and Tinosorb M provides about 280-400 nm (both UVB and UVA) protection range, peak protection at 303 nm and 358nm. However, it’s produced via nanotechnology though it rated low-risk compared to other chemical sunscreens. By absorbing, reflecting and scattering the sun’s UV rays, Tinosorb M provides reliable broad spectrum coverage of UV rays.

Sunscreens with Mexoryl XL and Tinosorb currently are available in EU, Australia, Canada, Japan and many other countries but not yet approved in U.S (source).  (Note: Sunscreen containing Mexoryl SX was given approval in US in 2006 under New Drug Application but not Mexoryl SX itself. source)

Efficacy of each sunscreen is important, but overall rating of the sunscreen formulation could be much more important. Many of us may not fully understand how to choose a well-formulated sunscreen on the market. Professional’s choice may be a helpful guideline.

Criteria of a good sunscreen must be:

  1. broad-spectrum ( provides protection against both UVA and UVB rays)
  2. high stability of active ingredients (remain stable in the sun, i.e. photo-stable)
  3. safe (low skin absorption)
  4. water-resistant (still provides marginal protection while in the water)
  5. sweat-resistant (still provides marginal protection while sweating)
  6. including antioxidants, moisturizing and soothing ingredients (optional but recommended, can be achieved by skin care routine prior sunscreen application to against free-radicals, reduce irritation and inflammatory, etc)

Besides, if you’re wearing moisturizer SPF25, sunscreen SPF30, makeup foundation SPF 15, the total sun protection you would get is the highest one, that means SPF30 in total, not the sum up total SPF70.

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Sunscreen Texture

If the sunscreen consistency is heavy, sticky, oily, uncomfortable wearing and intolerable scented, eventhough it’s well-formulated and provides effective sun protection, I doubt whether the sunscreen is sellable. Not to mention potentially comedogenic and acnegenic issues for certain skin types and in particular weather. Therefore, the sunscreen consistency should agree with your skin and meet your requirements, at least you’re more willing to daub on adequate amount on skin. Follow the product direction for face or body, or both.

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Re-application

In order to achieve desired sun protection, apply adequate amount is a must. Instead of applying the generous amount at one go which probably hard to blend evenly or being greasy or leaves heavy white tint, you can separate the amount into two or few applications. Wait the previous protective film formed, then apply another layer. Or, slowly build up if the sunscreen texture is lightweight enough.

If you are heading for outdoor activities such as swimming, do use very water and sweat resistant sunscreen and apply 15-30 minutes before sun exposure. Re-apply liberally every 2 hours for continuous protection. A water-resistant sunscreen can maintain its SPF up to 40 minutes when being submerged in water.

If you are staying indoor with minimum casual sun exposure, apply 15-30 minutes before sun exposure for better adherence, then re-apply only if the sunscreen effect has been wore off. That could be:

  • when you wiping/blotting/rubbing the skin (eg: excess sebum on face, tearing or sweating).
  • sunscreen ingredients such as Avobenzone and Mexoryl SX that are unstable when exposed to sunlight.

However, bare in mind that UVA can pass through 5cm glass and it can be reflected from the majority of common surfaces (such as wall), so even you stay indoor, clear glass allows up to 75% of UVA to pass. Tinted and reflective glass absorbs more of the UVA but still allows about 25-50% to pass. When outside, UV rays can be refracted via clouds, snow, beach sand or water, you might need to take higher measure of UV protection accordingly. Read more here and here.

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Vitamin D

Vitamin D deficiency is serious health concern. Approximate 90% of vitamin D is made naturally through sun exposure to the unprotected skin. Experts advised 15 minutes (light-skin) daily sun exposure without sun protection in sunny day (early morning or late afternoon) is sufficient for an adult. Darker skin may require up to 40 minutes.

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Cosmetic With Sunscreen

Certain cosmetics are also containing sunscreen but the sun protection measurement (SPF, PA, PPD) isn’t listed on packaging/product label. This type of product is categorized as cosmetic by FDA, not sunscreen. Hence, they’re not providing broad-spectrum protection against UV rays.

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My Final thought:

Normally, the efficacy of sunscreen is  prime concern to many of us, leading the higher SPF and PPD sunscreen is more sellable or product with sunscreen is preferred. Most common sunscreens I saw on the current Asia market are mixture of both chemical and mineral. As far as sensitive skin concern, safety should be the most crucial point. 

 

Last but not least, this is most complicated, dizziest, longest post that I ever wrote on this blog. Honestly I may not knowledgeable enough to fully interpret all the information I’ve read and I certainly don’t want to mislead anyone here. Therefore, if you have different opinions with verifiable source provided, or should you want to contribute additional info, welcome to leave a comment. Thank you.

18 Responses to "Sun Protection"

Hi, I just found out about your blog and am checking out your reviews of the sunblocks. I myself am a budding beauty product junkie (‘: I spend a lot of money on beauty products, so your blog will be helpful.

Regarding your sunblock pursue, I would like to recommend Neutrogena’s UltraSheer Dry-Touch Sunblock in SPF 50. It really worked the best for me, but it was costly so I tried switching to other brands (Nivea, Banana Boat…) but Neutrogena worked best. I will stock up on it once I got my pay.

Ironically I didn’t like the SPF 70 one. So I think the SPF 50 is the best.

Hope my suggestion helps (:

Hi w,
I’m more than delighted to hear my blog will be helpful and hopefully my reviews help.

Meanwhile thank you for making an effort to suggest but my sensitive skin had suffered adverse effects from some chemical sunscreen ingredients in the past so I stick to physical sunblock mostly. If I remember well, Neutrogena’s is chemical sunscreen but their sunscreen texture is indeed loveable (the ultrasheer and whitening one), glad it suits you very well. I’ve yet to meet my HG sunscreen but few I tried are worth to continue with. (”v)

I absolutely enjoyed your talk on sun protection today! I too, was burned about… three.. possibly four times. Which is why now, I lather on the SPF 50 (I wish I did earlier). I also found a great site for awesome women’s sun visors! Check it out!

Hello Patty,
Those visors look pretty! They surely appear more stylish than using an umbrella, especially sun-umbrella is almost an alien stuff in western country. Nonetheless sunscreen is still necessary to end the “sun-baking-story”, particular for the body skin. “v

Excuse me, Mexoryl SX is a powerful ingredient from L’Oreal that can maintain its protection very well since it doesn’t degrade under UV rays. I strongly recommend you to renovate the article.

Hi Randy,
Thank you for your comment.

Yes, Mexoryl is L’Oreal patent. According to EWG, the Mexoryl SX would degrade under sunlight.

Besides, here is the reply of Dr.Pickart from Skin Biology
Tinosorb is bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

Mexoryl is Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid.

Both of these very complex molecules absorb large amounts of energy. While they are said to be photostable, this stability is just relative. Underprolonged UV exposure they will also breakdown. While such breakdown may be less than with older sunscreen chemicals, they still will generate toxic breakdown products that will get into your blood and tissue.

There is not real evidence that such products reduce skin cancer and some studies suggest that sunscreen chemicals actually increase cancer.(source)

I appreciate you can provide me the link/source which saying Mexoryl does not degrade under UV rays for me to refer. Thanks.

Great article! 🙂
SPFs and sun protection weapons should definitely be our daily essentials; almost habitual routines esp. with the knowledge and facts between Sun and skin.
Who wants to age faster before his/her time? Before the skin ages, all other signs are tough-tackling enough already 😛

❤ Dee

Hi Dee,
Haha…but for sure all effort we put in will become fruitful one day. (︠ ︡ ﺭ)

Hi,
I’ve just started my own blog and would like to quote some knowledge from your post. Is that okay? I’ll put your website address for sure 🙂

Hi tania,
Thank you for the recognition. Yes, you can quote it and mention the source, I’m fine with it. (“v)

Thanks a lot .. I’m still writing on it 😀

no problem 😉

Hi beautyknot,
Thanks for your info. Normally, do we need to use some sort of makeup remover to clean the sunblock off our face at the end of the day? I find that I break out no matter what type of sunblock/sunscreen I use….any recommendation for acne-prone skin?

Thanks 😉

Hi Scout,
Yes, we need makeup remover to remove sunscreen thoroughly, especially most sunscreens on the market are waterproof. It sounds your skin is easily congested with sunscreen, is your skin naturally acne-prone or because of using sunscreen (that didn’t use makeup remover to cleanse)? If it’s later, the skin should be returned to normal gradually once you’ve proper cleanse your face every day.

Lightweight sunscreen is best for oily/acne-prone skin, either milky texture or emulsion/light cream texture. I suggest you look for Japanese (Biore, Sunkiller, Allie, Mentholatum etc), they have plenty good drugstore sunscreens that suitable for acne-prone/oily skin. Besides Japanese sunscreen, if your skin don’t react to chemical sunscreen, Neutrogena sunscreens are nice to try as well. (please refer to the first comment in this post). 😉

When it comes to sun protection, i alway choose sun block with SPF 15 or more. This enables me to protect myself agains the harmful effects of UV rays. “:;'”

Enjoy your weekend!

Thanks for sharing, Crissy

Hi, can I share this on my tumblr ? I will put your wordpress link as credit 😀 I’m impressed with so many information you have about sun protection and want to share it with my followers. I hope you don’t mind 🙂

Sure, I’m more than happy the info can be shared with others.
Hope them find it useful too (” v)

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Hi, many things have been keeping my mind and time occupied these days, thus I need more time to response to all comments. Please bear with me, thank you.

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My Skin Profile

Sensitive, combination skin type, visible blood vessels, freckles, easily dehydrated, dry and having fine line undereye, occasional breakout, visible aging pores.

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