Beautyknot ~ My Skin Care Diary

Archive for the ‘Exfoliator’ Category

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My sister gave me a sample kit of Korea UGB which consisting of Peeling Gel, Facial Essence Collagen Mask and Aqua Cream. I read about this brand online before because some beauty bloggers had done review on the Aqua cream but when I asked my counterpart in Korea, she actually never heard about this brand. Sounds like some cosmetics brands in Korea are mainly targeting foreign market only.  f(“ .)??

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According to Korea Tourism, UGB is a house brand of Ani Place, using Korea ginseng as their main ingredient. The brand is also available in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore. I got the latest (Sept 2011) Korea retail prices from a Hong Kong forum, from their discussion the price was soaring nearly 27% within this year!  (” w)

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UGB Facial Essence Collagen Mask (KRW38000/8pcs)

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The mask sheet was very wet and adhered to skin extremely well. I was wearing the mask and doing my work in front of my laptop, and did not realize the time had passed by so quickly. My goodness, I wore this mask sheet for nearly an hour! Still it well-adhered to skin, only the mask sheet became more drying. Although skin was a little bit sticky touch right after removed the mask sheet, the skin was very nice hydrated and soft, the pores also looked slightly tighten due to hydration.

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As my sensitive skin had not sensed any skin irritation at all, I paid extra attention to its ingredient list and trying to figure out why. Noticing it contains several skin calming ingredients, one of them is Centella Asiatica Extract which is an oriental herb that used to treat variety of ailments, promote wound healing, improve blood circulation and scar appearance. The Centella Asiatice (a.k.a tiger herb or gotu kola) is also the main ingredient of Kiehl’s Centella Skin Recover Salve and Clinie Teatree series mask (no wonder I felt very familiar with this ingredient, haha)

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I massaged the remaining mask essence until it absorbed and then followed by applying a light BB cream, the mask essence kept my combination skin moist all day long. Overall I am happy with its excellent moisturizing effect and the quality mask sheet.

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Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Gingko Biloba Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Natto Gum, Wheat Amino Acids, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen, Betaine, Sodium PCA, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Niacinamide Amylodextrin, Calcium Pantothenate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine HCL, Silica, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Methylparaben, Parfum.

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Aqua Cream  (KRW38000/50g)

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This aqua cream simply reminded me of Bihada Ichizoku Finishing Aqua Gel Cream. The aqua cream is gel liked and becoming dewy upon massaging on skin. Comparing to Bihada Ichizoku’s, this has strong ginseng scent (dissipated after few minutes) and apparently  it generates smaller water droplets on massaging.

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The cream became fairly watery after breaking into droplets and sank in skin rapidly, leaving a smooth veil. Since I used it once, thus I would not be able to comment more. I personally did not fond of this type of aqua cream, I felt it was too light that cannot protect my sensitive, easily dehydrated skin. I applied Biore sunscreen and compact powder after using the aqua cream and my skin felt uncomfortably dry after few hours. It might work better for oily skin.

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Peeling Gel (KRW38000/50g)

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The product claimed to gently peel the dead cells off with cellulose and vegetable ingredients. It is very lightweight and has ginseng smell too. This is to be used on cleansed and dry skin, apply appropriate amount and gently massage on skin. The gel would quickly turn dewy and become flaky as shown in my below pictures.

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Frankly I have kind of feeling of rubbing many rubber particles on skin since my skin soaked up the gel hydration quickly. As my skin was not dull that could not justify the peeling result, so I also tested this on the back of hand. I must admit the instant result did impress me, the hand appeared a shade lighter (temporary only) than the other hand. As I have no ingredient list of this peeling gel, that was no way to tell what made the skin appeared whiter. In addition, I felt my skin was quite drying afterward and those annoying blackheads on my nose bridge were still sitting there gloatingly.

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This type of exfoliator was nothing new to me because that was main reason of why Ginvera marvel gel was so popular in SEA region many years ago. Please do not mistake the white flaky particles as skin dead cells (though they look similar), the concept of this kind of exfoliator is actually using those soft particles for physical exfoliating.  This type of exfoliator cannot work on dampened/wet skin else it will not generate those rubber-like particles, while dead skin cells can actually be rubbed off easily by fingertips from wet skin, which my mom always asked me to do in shower when I was a kid.  Some cosmetic brands also included humectants to soften skin or fruit acids to loosen the binding in between dead cells so the subsequent physical exfoliation can be done more easily.

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As a whole, I think UGB is a nice trial and loveable for oily skin. The reason of its soaring price is unclear, anyway, according to the HK forum, UGB is always on promotion “Buy 5 Get 1 Free” in Korea so for those who like this brand, it is really a big saving if you happen to shop in Korea.

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I was looking for a natural facial scrub and this Australia skincare comes to my mind. Sukin is a natural and affordable skincare that I don’t mind to try more of their product. I got this free with their Eye Serum purchase, so basically I have no idea how much it costs but it should be around AUD10/125ml in Australia.

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According to Sukin, the facial scrub contains bamboo extract and ground walnut shells exfoliate dirt and impurities that can dull the appearance of skin then aloe vera, rosehip oil and German chamomile work to soothe and relax.

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Application: Apply a small amount to fingertips. In a circular motion, massage into face and neck. Rinse well with warm water.

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This is actually my first natural facial scrub, unlike many 2-in-1 facial scrubs that acting both cleanser and exfoliator, it has creamy base and doesn’t foam up. Normally I use it on cleansed and damp skin, it does leave a sheer moisture film on skin after rinsed off with warm water, keeping skin non-drying and soft. I think this is nice for dry skin but grown up as a tropical baby, I still prefer squeaky fresh skin especially when the weather is very muggy.

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Depending on my skin condition, sometimes I found the scrub particles are too coarse and sharp for my non-irritated facial skin, sometimes it worked just fine. In both circumstances, I should thanks to the creamy base for facilitating the scrubbing, it is at least much gentle than Kiehls’s micro-dermabrasion (The tube lasts about 1.5 years…!). However, I will continue search for more gentle and effective alternative.

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In term of result, although skin is smoother after exfoliating but it just works decently as normal drugstore facial scrub such as L’Oreal, Olay, Biore…etc. Besides Sukin facial scrub has pleasant natural scent, I think it might be slightly gentle than those drugstore scrubs because it is non-foaming and moisturizing. I also used this as body scrub (^ ᴥ ^) and I found the effectiveness is really so-so, it seemed to be too mild to slough away my abundant dead skin cells in hot & humid season.

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It is recommended 1~2 usages a week and use within 6 months after opened the seal. Well, this is why I also used it as body scrub because I can’t finish the product within the timeline, since it is given complimentary so I wouldn’t feel pain by using it generously.

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Rating: ….)))       Satisfied. Will not buy again.

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Ingredients:

Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20, Bambusa Arundinacea Powder (Bamboo), Juglans Regia (Walnut) Shell Powder, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rose Hip), Chamomilla Recutita  (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Arctium Lappa Extract (Burdock), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange)  Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Extract, Linalool,* Limonene.* 

* Natural component of essential oils. 

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This stuff is actually belonging to my SO but I also used it from time to time (“b). To my surprise, I found it quite pleasant to use. My tube of Kiehl’s Mirco-Dermabrasion is nearly finished, and I was thinking to buy a gentle & natural facial scrub next that can be used more frequently; in the mid of searching a natural facial scrub, I just feel free and open to any facial scrub that available to be grabbed in my bathroom.

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It has fluffy texture and the scrub particles are very small and less abrasive, even my non-irritated sensitive skin can tolerate the scrub several times a week. In addition, it did not dry out my skin after wash. However, I do not notice any improvement to pores sizes.  

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Most L’Oreal skin care has very strong fragrance but this one is mild and pleasant. Hmn… I did not get the chance to examine the full ingredient list when I got my SO to purchase this (he trusted my opinion in skincare) as THB210/100ml was the only amount that he was willing to pay for a facial scrub. The full ingredient list was fully covered by a security sticker and technically we cannot remove the product security sticker before we paid for it, hence no guilty I introduced him a facial scrub with SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) ya? The truth is, there is no concrete evidence to date had proven SLES is harmful thus it is still widely acceptable by many cosmetics chemists, dermatologists and consumers. Anyhow, personally I will still give this product a miss if I know it contains SLES.

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*♪  Cleansing Power Indicator ♪ *


(Top: shimmering lipstick on)(Middle: Dampen the skin and scrubbing for 15 seconds)(Bottom: rinsed with water, patting dry)

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While I felt this is gentle for the sensitive skin, I was surprised to witness it has mild cleansing power in reality. From the above simple testing, the shimmering lipstick still largely remained after 15 seconds scrubbing with this L’Oreal Derma Genesis Pore Minimising Smoother. Yes, why do we need strong detergent for delicate skin? We are not crocodile. Glad to know some brands are working to improve their budget-line product and I know L’Oreal is not alone.


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Ingredients:

Aqua/Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Zea Mays Starch/Corn Starch, CI77891/Titanium Dioxide, Decyl Glucoside, Polyethylene, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan), PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Parfum/Fragrance, Capryloyl Salicyclic Acid, Citric Acid, Menthol, Phenoxyethanol, Salicyclic Acid, Sodium Bonzoate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum.

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HABA 2-way Gel (RM120/120ml)

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According to HABA, this is self-heating gel mask that naturally heats to clean clogged pores and remove dead skin cells. 2-Way also means two-purposes, one is to clean clogged pores and the other is to improve circulation in your skin. It is suitable for normal to dry skin.

This Haba 2-way Jell has very simple ingredients. As per HABA US website, 2-Way Jell naturally warms on contact due to glycerin, which helps improve skin’s circulation and exfoliate dead skin cells naturally without the use of harsh abrasives. Interesting, I never knew glycerin creates warm sensation.

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The samples that I received with purchase were enough for four applications, each contains 10g for two applications. Ideally the  mask  use once or twice per week for exfoliating and detoxifying.

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As you can see, it is a clear gel mask. The texture is viscous, rich and sticky like honey or glue paste. On applying to cleansed and dried skin, there was warm sensation aroused within a minute and the warm sensation dissipated gradually in 2-3 minutes then.

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I could see my complexion had more glow after application. Stubborn blackheads around my nose were still there but since the mask had softened the skin, I could easily squeeze out those blackheads without pain. For moisturizing and softening, this is fine. How about for exfoliating and detoxifying?

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I had the first trial after shower at night, it seemed to be very mild that I felt no effect of exfoliation,  furthermore I couldn’t see the result clearly in incandescent light of my house, thus I tried it again in next morning and my skin texture remarkably felt smoother after the second application. However, my sensitive skin started complaining when I used a pure vitamin C serum that the skin stung uncomfortably for next few days! That said, this Haba 2-way Jell did work as exfoliator although I saw no visible improvement of skin texture after an application. Overall speaking, I am still not convinced by this, although I wish it works for me. Personally I would rather stick with physical exfoliator.

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Ingredients:

Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Lysolecithin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Water, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide.

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HABA Squa Cleansing (S$25/60ml, S$46/120ml, S$81/240ml)

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Haba Squa Cleansing is moisture-rich makeup remover for drier skin type (and sensitive skin), where Micro Force Cleansing (makeup remover) is suitable for oilier skin. The product claims it can be used by wet hands and second cleansing is not necessary because it can remove makeup thoroughly. Really?

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The consistency of this makeup remover felt light and runny on skin, as I used sample sachet so I was not sure how many pump needed for a proper makeup removal, I guess 1~2 pumps should be enough.

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( ^^ ن )σ … Cleansing Power … ԅ ( ‘ن` )

(Top to Bottom) :  shimmering lipstick and Diorshow mascara  >>  applying decent amount of Haba Squa Cleansing onto the makeup and lightly massage in circular motion  >>  then rinsed with water and patted dry

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Amazing! Makeup was melting away almost instantly upon massaging the oil on makeup. Finally I found a cleansing oil which compatible with Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil. It had not irritated eyes and totally feeling gentle for my sensitive skin. In addition, it did not emulsify when contacted with water but it cleansed well. Probably because skipping the emulsifying step, it left skin a moisturizing film after wash, not the greasy kind but you could tell there was a thin protective veil on skin. I personally liked to proceed second cleansing with HABA Squa Powder Wash, not only because for refreshing feel but also because my shower routine.

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My shower routine : makeup removal  >> hair wash >> body wash >> facial wash. If I simply follow the one-step cleansing as HABA Squa Cleansing advised, then I wouldn’t able to assure myself there is no hair shampoo/conditioner residues cling on my face which possibly cause acne problem. Besides, the moisturizing film felt too much for my combination skin in muggy day.

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Comparing with Fancl MCO, I vote for HABA Squa Cleansing now. In fact, they both are excellent, just I prefer HABA SC has longer fresh period (use within 6 months after opened according to a Haba SA) than Fancl MCO  (use within 120 days) and it has no stinking smell from temperature-sensitive botanical oil although both contain no additive fragrance. Only thing is that Fancl MCO suitable for all skin types where this HABA SC is for normal to dry skin types only.

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Ingredients:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Squalane, Hexadecanoic Acid 2-Ethylhexyl Ester, Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Dextrin Palmitate/ Ethylhexanoate/ Eicosandioate, Glyceryl Tribehenate/ Isostearate/ Eicosandioate, Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Butylene Glycol, Water.

 

Again, I am sharing brief reviews of sample testing in this post. Since I used them for less than a week, please take the review for superficial reference only.

Dr. Ci:Labo Pore White Peel (SGD85/80ml)

According to Dr.Ci:labo website, Pore White Peel combines citric acids and lactic acids to remove excess build up of keratin on your skin epidermis. As you massage this gel onto your face it envelops your skin to lift off and remove keratin and dirt that does not come off with regular face washing.  By removing layers of dead skin, you refresh your face and allow its normal cycle to continue unimpeded. Vitamin A and P for improving your skin’s tone, vitamin H for preventing roughness, together with VC-IP* (oil-soluble vitamin C derivative) improves your skin’s tone and to make your pores less noticeable in long term use.

The citrus scent is fairly strong like lemon flavoured floor cleanser but still tolerable. Apply to clean and dry skin in evening, avoid eye area. Take an appropriate amount and gently massage onto dry skin in circular motion until you see the white stuff peeling up. Rinse well with clean water then.

My skin did feel slippery smooth immediately after exfoliating,  just temporary. Although this is hydrating and comfortable to use, but when I tried this in consecutive two days, my skin tends to be easily irritated, so I do believe it exfoliates. As per product instruction, it should be use 2~3 times a week. Since I only used it 3 times, I can not comment further of its effectiveness.

Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dicocodimonium Chloride, Steartrimonium Bromide, Vitamin A Oil , Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Biotin, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Lactic Acid, Glucose, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Green Tea Extract, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Isopropyl Alcohol.

 

 

Dr. Ci Labo Moisture-Collagen-Eye (SGD75/15g)

This is creamy but non-heavy, and it takes a short while to absorb into skin, works well under makeup too. As I just tried it for a week, I would be able to comment about its moisturizing factor only. To summarize, if you are not fuzzy about fine line, this is sufficient; if you have very dry skin under eyes and intend to hide the fine line all the time, this is insufficient.

Ingredients: 

Water, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Glycerin, Squalane, Triethylhexanoin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Behenyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Succinoyl Atelocollagen, Ampd-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dihydroxymethylsilylpropoxy Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Birch (Betula Alba) Bark Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide 3, Madecassoside, Bergenia Ligulata Root Extract, Tocopherol, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Polyquaternium-51, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Arginine, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil.

 

 

This is nothing new but I always hesitant to pay more for full size product, hence I was quite excited when I saw this travel size in Daiso (THB60/4pieces).

I was expecting it’s fragrance free but it has kind of unpleasant chemical smell, so does it release any harmful stuff to skin while rubbing the skin? I don’t know.

 

Direction for use:

  1. Use it on cleansed skin after washing your face or removing your makeup. It’s most effective if you use it during bath.
  2. Soak it in hot water of about 40 degrees Celsius for about two to three minutes.
  3. Put your finger into a moistened and softened cocoon and softly massage any areas you are concerned about, such as the nostrils.
  4. Proceed with your skin care routine after using this product. 

 

According to the product packaging, each cocoon can be used three to five times. Do not store it in hot and humid location or expose it to direct sunlight.

Lets try.

 

After softened in hot water, the cocoon remained in its original shape but became slightly softer. I prefer using it on cleansed and dampen skin, only focus on nostril and inner cheeks that easily prone to blackheads.

 

Cocoon is made of 100% silk, rich in amino acids, you can have mild peeling effect of natural silk as it meant for removing dead skin cells and pore-clogging dirt. Think about using loofah for body exfoliation in shower. I used one cocoon for three consecutive nights, the skin seemed to be a little bit smoother that the pores were looked smaller, although those stubborn blackheads were still required manual squeezing. Sometimes I could feel the skin notably smoother right after scrubbing.

Overall I think cocoon for daily exfoliation is a gentler way (might be too mild) comparing to using facial scrub, particularly some facial scrubs contain gritty and edgy fruit particles that can be sharp to skin. However I don’t think this is something that can replace normal exfoliation or deep cleansing.

 

What Kiehl’s says about this: A simple formulation with hydrating Sodium Hyaluronate and “Enzyme Activator” – Urea and HEPES (Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid). Clinically-Dermatologist (based on dermatologist-controlled study) to facilitate the natural exfoliation process and expose noticeably smoother, more even and vibrant skin by morning. Kiehl’s clinical test results demonstrated that this formula performs as well as a potent, leave-on 10% Glycolic Acid chemical peel.

 

Direction for use: Cleanse skin thoroughly prior to application. Apply treatment at night, avoiding immediate eye area, and allow to dry on skin. Leave on overnight and remove with warm water in the morning. May be used three times per week, or more as needed.

 

I had couple of samples with 5ml each, one sample was enough for three applications. As I have sensitive skin, I decided to test it in humid weather that my combination skin rarely has dehydration issue and normally well-behaved. I used it every Monday, Wednesday and Friday for two weeks in different month.

 

 

I did apply hydrating lotion or mineral spray before using this. This oil-free, gluey gel texture felt very moisturizing as though I was applying gel mask. The shiny gel film that left on skin was fairly sticky and greasy, even after five hours, fortunately it does not has to be used on daily basis, else it could be comedogenic due to the heavy gel film. On the other hand, I thought that was something good for the skin moisture to survive overnight in air-conditioning.

 

When I applied this in evening, normally the gel film had been fully dried on skin in next morning (I sleep in air-conditioned room). When I applied it before bedtime, skin would be feeling a little sticky still in next morning. Instead of washing the gel film with warm water, I was proceeded to my usual cleansing routine (grape seed oil massage & foaming facial wash).

 

 

I am not certain if it really worked. Sometimes I saw my complexion was glowing in a nice way the next morning, sometimes the skin appeared a little bit red, which I would use powder foundation or BB cream to neutralize the mild redness. Sometimes I did not see any difference compared to using other moisturizer. Furthermore, the skin texture was not smooth touching at the end of the week, slightly rough that urged me for scrubbing (I performed scrubbing on Sat). No irritation had been noticed. For your reference, I had halted other form of exfoliation prior to testing this product.

 

I think it worked. I noticed my pores appeared smaller (not everytime though), to be frankly I rather believe the retained skin moisture attributed to the refined skin texture because my skin was being lovely supple and resilience. In short, this formula did help to improve skin moisture. Besides, it helped to lighten and disperse an old acne mark to great extend within a month, together with Kiehls Vitamin C that I used in morning.

 

An old acne mark on 14th Jul 2010. Picture was taken under fluorescent light.

 

After using Kiehl’s Over-Night Biological Peel and Powerful Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate for a week. Picture was taken on 7th Aug 2010 with sunlight.

 

Despite I am not acne-prone, the greasy gel film could worsen any active acne. It caused 1~2 small oil zits on the oily zone whenever I used it. I also noticed some blackheads but not a big issue for me. This is not something that can replace usual exfoliation, physical/chemical exfoliation and deep cleansing mask were still necessary for clean and smooth skin.

 

It retails for THB2600/50ml in Thailand, it is expensive for a mild peeling product. Nevertheless, I think this is a gentler alternative for AHA or BHA intolerant skin. Otherwise, a physical scrub would possibly be doing the good job as well.

 

Ingredients:

Aqua/Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Urea, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben.

 

 


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My apology

Hi, many things have been keeping my mind and time occupied these days, thus I need more time to response to all comments. Please bear with me, thank you.

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My Skin Profile

Sensitive, combination skin type, visible blood vessels, freckles, easily dehydrated, dry and having fine line undereye, occasional breakout, visible aging pores.

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