Beautyknot ~ My Skin Care Diary

Archive for May 2010

 

I learned a new word- Melasma recently from my dermatologist. A new term added into my skin profile though I had noticed the pinkish pigmented patch two years ago but didn’t know what it calls. That really wasn’t a good news, forcing me to consider whitening care in my daily routine since mine was highly related to sun exposure. Vitamin C always my favorite because it takes care free-radical and melanin at one shot.

 

 

I don’t want to layer extra product on face, so I thought adding an ingredient into my current product might be a good idea. This DHC Vitamin C Powder is a water-soluble, stable Vitamin C derivative- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) formulated. This Vitamin C Powder contains some basic ingredients such as solvent, hydrating and soothing ingredients, plus pH stabilizer and minimum preservative; so this Vitamin C powder can be melted in oil or even by itself alone, just it formulated in powder form.

 

 

 

Direction: Never squeeze the bottle. Dispense the powder slowly for desired amount. This is to be used after toning, before moisturizer. Mix with DHC Olive Virgin Oil or any other face oil on palm before applying to face.

 

Before and after finger dabbing

powder

dabbing

melting

Don't rub, it pills

 

Fragrance free. The powder is very fine, a little bit cooling upon applying it alone. It melts almost instantly by light finger dabbing, feeling a tiny powdery though. Based on what I’ve tried, the best vehicle to this powder is oil, the worst is any gel-type product.  

  • Dabbing the powder directly on the pigmentation patches, it melted into skin quickly. There were a little bit powdery feeling, a little bit drying and stinging sometimes which can be eased by following moisturizer.
  • Mixing with watery lotion or light serum, the clear lotion became semi-opaque. Depending on the amount used, it wasn’t dissolved fully and still having powdery feeling on skin.
  • Mixing with face oil, seemed the powder dissolved thoroughly because it felt traceless in the oil, as well as on the skin.

 

Mix with L’Occitane dry oil

 

before mixing

after mixing

I bought this C powder one week earlier than Kiehls’s. Since I was using Kiehl’s 10.5% C concentrate in the morning, so I used this C powder at night only. Sometimes I mixed this with my face oil, sometimes I simply dab the powder on the pigmented area directly after face oil because I didn’t want it to be diluted. I had three small hormonal acnes on my forehead, as soon as they dried out, I started dabbing this C powder on them directly every night. Those acne marks faded off to a dot-size in a month but nothing more. They were still existed even nearly 4 months now but barely noticeable with sunscreen or loose powder on. I just got to be patient and wait those annoying marks gradually disappear over time. I also tried this C powder on the scar of my hand, and I don’t think there was any remarkably improvement, neither for hyper-pigmented scar nor freckles.

 

 

As this is in powder form, I stored this in refrigerator all the times, cap tightly after use. Nevertheless I noticed some powder caked after a month. Perhaps it didn’t affect the rest of the content that I could still continue using it, but that certainly not a good thing. Please refer to above attached picture, you will know what I am referring to.

 

 

At least the packaging is nicely-designed, helping me to get a small amount precisely each time. The cap has a small stop to fully keep the dispensing spout tightly-closed, and the cylinder design of the spout is extremely helpful to avoid any messy pouring. Is that worth the price THB650/5g? I mostly used small amount each time on targeted spot, so the powder lasted me about 2~3 months, but if using it as DHC directed, I think it’s probably enough for one month usage. My answer to the question, I don’t think so.

 

Rating: ….)))     Satisfied. Will not buy again.

 

Ingredients:

Water, Propylene Glycol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phospholipids

 

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36ml, this is truly a generous amount of mask essence that I have ever seen in drugstore mask. HKD9.90/36ml, sounds even better? It contains no mineral oil, colorant and fragrance, as well as brightening ……. I must grab one to try.

 

 

SANA is a Japanese drugstore line with the main ingredient – soybean. I had read their soy emulsion received a good rave for sensitive skin in Japan magazines, but I didn’t want to get their other products since many of them contain alcohol.

 

 

The ingredient list is in Japanese, the first ingredient is soybean, followed by water; hence the color of this mask essence is a tad opaque. It doesn’t smell like soybean, the smell actually got me thinking of hospital, kind of medicine odour, I guess that is the smell of fermented soybean?

 

 

With the amount more than a bottle of normal essence, I bet the mask will still attach to skin firmly even you jog and jump. I wore the mask while doing my housekeeping, for arund 30 minutes (double the time of 15 minutes that stated in the direction), the mask sheet on jaw line never fell and it stayed on well as though I newly placed on. I went for 10 seconds rope-jumping later, it passed my notorious test. (“b)

 

 

The mask essence is very gentle, non-irritating to skin and eye, totally comfortable wearing. The essence actually slipped into one of my eye a little bit, yet I felt nothing, no redness or irritation. After removing the mask, skin texture didn’t look refined but really moist all day long on the testing day, which was cloudy, less humid with cool breeze. Also, it was non-sticky and absorbed rapidly into skin. I don’t think it imparted any brightening anyway, the skin was glowing but not even-toned like whitening mask did. Because I wanted to apply anti-aging serum, so I rinsed off the excess mask essence with clean water, followed by soothing toner, serum and sunscreen.

 

 

I’m more than happy to recommend this calming, moisturizing mask to dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin. Bought this at Sasa store Hong Kong during my previous trip.

 

 
 

Mandom Beauty from Japan is another low-cost mask that I bought at Sasa HK. Without readable full ingredient list on the packaging, I tried to select those marked as gentle, amid plenty of choice. 

 

 

 

According to the packaging, it contains collagen for skin firming, mimics baby skin moisture, prevent dryness and sensitivity with highly concentrated moisturizing properties. Best of all, it is free of fragrance, colorant and preservatives. Also, generous 27ml essence.

 

 

The sheet mask is multi-layer designed with 3D cutting to mask every inch of face, not exactly stretchable but it fits my face perfectly. Unlike normal mask cutting, the jaw line is not connected, thus it is easier to adjust the position to get the mask adhered to skin tightly.

 

 

After cleansing, I placed the mask over face for 10 minutes only because I did not have dehydrated skin at that time. The essence was clear liquid-gel consistency and it smelled like soy milk. According to the instruction, supposedly I got to massage remaining essence into skin after removed the mask, but I just rinsed it off with water as it felt too heavy on skin.

 

 

Skin looked slightly brighter, satisfiable moisturizing effect but nothing fantastic I thought. However, this was one of those masks that did not irritate eyes, eventhough I opened my eye sneakily with the eye flip on. Moreover it really soften the skin that I could squeezed the extra sebum on T-zone pretty effortless because they simply popped out half way by themselves. Even with clay mask, as long as the skin is temporary suffocated to increase the skin temperature, pores will open by themselves to absorb ingredient better; on the other hand, any excessive sebum will also come out automatically. Hence, do not rush to slash on other stuff on skin before you examine the skin condition.

 

Everything seemed to be slightly above average until my skin was “baby” bouncy and soft in the next morning. Hmn… I just need to be more patient.

 

HKD9.90/27ml, how can I demand more?

 

 

Are these miracle broths really precious? From western La Mer seaweed to eastern SK-II Pitera. Despite the legend, the cost of the holistic broth extraction is certainly one of the reasons to the high mark-up. Therefore, when I saw this SK-II Aqua Physics sample for the price tag HKD59/15ml, I thought it was worthy for a try. Especially it costs THB2200/50g for a pure hydrating cream.

 

 

The content is gel-liked, dewy and lightweight. When I pick up the hydrating gel from the jar, I feel like it will melt on my finger. It smoothes on skin effortless, very slippery while massaging. In fact the amount should be adjusted accordingly to the weather. For me,  I use a pea size only for face and neck (after lotion, oil, serum) in humid weather, otherwise it takes more than 20 minutes to settle on skin. Once it settled, skin appears matte yet glowing, however the bigger amount I use, the skin is stickier to touch. I don’t mind the minor stickiness, as long as I don’t touch the skin, it feels weightless on skin. The only issue is it doesn’t settle instantly that skin looks quite greasy in the beginning.

 

Frankly, the texture is way too similar to BHD Aqua Finishing Gel-Cream. BHD’s has thicker texture while this SK-II Aqua Physics seems to be more dewy, hence lighter. I prefer SK-II’s texture, it really keeps the skin well hydrated and really soft, I mean always. 

 

 

It’s totally comfortable wearing, no breakout and can be used at anytime. I didn’t use it alone during 3.5 weeks sampling because that was too light for my easily dehydrated skin. On the other hand, don’t expect this is helpful to smooth up the dry lines instantly when skin is prone to dryness. It helps gradually.

 

I wish I can have it for longer time. If you are follower of Pitera, don’t mind to pay the price, then this is a nice hydrating gel in summer time.

 

Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dimethicone/Peg-10/15 Crosspolymer, Sodium Chloride, Panthenol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylparaben, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Caffeine, Xanthan Gum, Cyclodextrin Laurate 

 

 

 

I have two sample packs of this from my previous Kanebo GWP. Kanebo Impress Brightener (THB2200/100ml) is skin softener that to be used prior to lotion. It aims to soften the skin, remove dead skin cell and encourage skin turnover rate. Due to my thin and sensitive skin, I’m not normally include this type of product into my daily skin care routine unless it formulated for sensitive skin. However, the constant poor rating of Exfoliation measurement from Kanebo Skin Analyzer got me considering the possibility. This sample is definitely helpful by telling me if my sensitive skin can tolerate daily mild exfoliation (though I think this isn’t a good idea).

 

 

The tiny viscous liquid consistency is very hydrating, silky and lightweight. On applying, skin felt refreshing, no greasiness and no stickiness, it just sank into skin rapidly. No matter how much I applied it on, the skin seemed to drink it all quickly. I used this at night only and each sample pack contains 3ml that enough for 3~4 applications.

 

 

From what I observed, those skin care products that I used after this Impress Brightener were penetrated into skin faster. At the same time, my facial veins also became extremely prominent and my mild melasma on cheekbones have been worsened despite I wore sunscreen faithfully in day time. Fortunately both facial veins and melasma cleared off greatly in few days after I stopped using this. For that reason, I was reluctant to continue with this after finished the first sample pack eventhough I suspect that was because I used the Impress brightener liberally.

 

If you ask me does it live up to its claim for smoother, brighter skin? I believe it did help the smoother skin because of its mild exfoliating nature. I didn’t perform any manual exfoliation during the few days and my skin was still smooth with smaller pore (hydration, perhaps?). However I don’t think I’ve brighter skin, it just being red, sensitive and vulnerable.

 

I tested the second sample pack on my leg. After wiping the gel lotion on the skin area, the spot notably brighter but the pores seemed to get inflamed that looked red and unsightly after several hours. FYI, I’ve various degree of sensitive skin from head to toe. Therefore, while many cosmetic PRs comment a daily mild exfoliating product is gentler for sensitive skin, that really depends and we never know how true is that until we have tried it personally. I must be allergic to certain ingredient of this Impress brightener.

 

 

I’m glad to sample this anyway, it affirmed me that I should immediately call off my thought of including a product like overnight peel or exfoliating toner into my long-term skin care routine, but I don’t mind to sample again the safe-formulated one. I guess and I wonder, would the Kanebo skin care range lacks of physical peeling/exfoliating/deep-cleansing product is because they prefer daily mild skin exfoliating/renewing, such as this Impress brightener, Kanebo Blanchir Superior White Luster and Keratin Clearing Serum? Whatever. For mix & match skin care person like me certainly need to be more cautious.

 

Ingredients:

Water (Aqua), Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Acetyl Glucosamine, Niacinamide, Phenyl Trimethicone, Raffinose, Butylene Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Juice, Dimethicone, Ethyl Glucoside, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance (Parfum), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Aminobutyric Acid, Disodium Ascorsyl Sulfate, Methylserine, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Composita Root Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Algae Extract, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast, Methoxyethanol, Ethylparaben, Beta-carotene, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Proplparaben.

 

I got this approximately 50% price off, while I thought this is a good deal, ehh? It had been two years from the manufacturing date, which is going to be expired in a year. As my existing hand creams were finishing soon and I always used up a hand cream in 1~3 months, not a big problem for me anyway.

 

 

This hand cream is very nourishing but lightweight, it actually soaks in easily though a little bit greasy in the beginning. The thing is, it smells … strange when I sniff my hand closely, I guess that’s the smell of natural ingredients. Once it fully absorbed into skin, no greasiness but leaves a minimum shiny film and the unpleasant smell is faintly noticeable. This isn’t fragranced, surely I would prefer fragranced hand care.

 

 

Despite all those minor gripes, it indeed capable to moisturize skin after hand wash. It lacks of superior moisturizing power for overnight hand care though apply liberal amount would help. I normally add extra serum/oil before applying hand cream in order to boost the moisturizing factor for night care. Amongst the hand creams I’ve ever reviewed here, Skinfood, Caudalie, B&C, this DHC’s is the only one that failed to soften my heel overnight. That might be over-demanding as it never meant for heel, but still, I degrade the rating because of this reason.

 

 

This DHC Q10 Hand Cream is retailing at THB350/50ml. For its good ingredient list, initially I thought I’ll only consider to repurchase when there is a good deal, such as THB166 I paid during the mini sales. After realizing drugstore hand cream can perform as good as it with much lower price point, I don’t think I’ll re-purchase then, furthermore I much prefer powdery-smooth finish.

 

Rating:….)))    Satisfied. Will not buy again.

 

Ingredients:

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene glycol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowform) Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Beeswax, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Butylene Glycol, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Placental Protein.

 

 

 

I received this cleansing water as part of my GWP few months ago. Having a sensitive skin, a calming cleansing solution is always welcomed. What I most concerned about non-water cleansing is it probably lacks of good cleansing power, hence I normally prefer foaming and water-rinsing cleanse. This Vichy Purete Thermale Calming Cleansing Solution however, amazed me.

 

The cleansing water is watery, mildly scented, and feeling hydrating, and… hydrating on skin. I tried this to cleanse my face in the morning particularly when my skin was severely sensitive that stung from time to time (mildly sunburned). Pour small amount onto cotton pad and gently wiping in outward movement. The poor skin felt comfortable and hydrating, no irritation, no redness, no dryness, yet cleanse well; although the frictional cleansing method might not be truly gentle enough for vulnerable, sensitized skin.

 

 

Because this Vichy Calming Cleansing Solution can’t dissolve my blackhead, so I rather stick to my daily grape seed oil massage to soften the trapped sebum and blackhead. After blotting excessive grape seed oil, this is able to remove the oil residue effectively, and I rinse my face with water then. (“b Can’t feel right without water rinsing)

 

Personally I think this will be much helpful during long-haul flight, makeup touch-up and for unstable skin condition during season change. One thing to make sure is, prepare a lot of cotton pad because without cotton, no way to cleanse. Concerning of full makeup, I rather go for cleansing oil for peace of mind in regard of its cleansing power.

 

~:~ Cleansing Test ~:~

Shimmering lipstick and waterproof mascara

 

Saturated the cotton pad with this Vichy’s cleansing water, place on the mascara stain for 30seconds in order to disolve the mascara.

Gently wipe off the makeup. Lipstick dissolved easily, some glittering-particles leftover. It’s quite useless for the very waterproof mascara.

 

Second wiping. The mascara disolved a little bit via the frictional wiping, basically the cleansing power isn’t strong enough for waterproof mascara.

 

Living in hot climate with no distinctive four seasons change, frankly I don’t need this kind of cleansing solution in my normal skin care routine, but undeniably I immediately fell in love with this Vichy Purete Thermale Calming Cleansing Solution since the first usage.

 

Ingredients:

Aqua/Water, Hexylene Glycol, Glycerin, Poloxamer 184, Rosa Gallica/Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Dihydrocholeth-30, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Parfum/Fragrance.

 


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My apology

Hi, many things have been keeping my mind and time occupied these days, thus I need more time to response to all comments. Please bear with me, thank you.

:::::::::::::::: Mood :::::::::::::::

My Skin Profile

Sensitive, combination skin type, visible blood vessels, freckles, easily dehydrated, dry and having fine line undereye, occasional breakout, visible aging pores.

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