Beautyknot ~ My Skin Care Diary

Archive for January 2010

According to Clarins, the star ingredient, Katafray bark (is part of a fair trade programme with the local Madagascan population) and Service tree bud ensures the ideal moisture balance of the skin. By maintaining skin’s ideal ”climate”, this cream offers unrivalled radiance.

 

From the Clarins beauty catalog, there are few pre-defined Moisturizing solutions for different skin needs. HydraQuench Cooling cream-gel is for age group 20-30s, who has normal to oily skin, travels often and exposed to many forms of modern pollution as well as experience sudden climate change or hot climates shine caused by heat and humidity. While HydraQuench Cream is recommended to those in 40s, who has dry skin or those staying long hours in air-conditioned environment. Lastly, HydraQuench Rich Cream is ideal for those in 50s with dry skin.

 

 

Having combination skin, I suppose to get the cream-gel version, but it contains starch and alcohol which I afraid it could be too drying for my sensitive skin, hence defeats the purpose of hydrating. The cream version seemed smooth and moist while tested on hand, so I decided to give it a try.

 

The floral fragrance is quite strong to me, not my favorite scent but pleasant enough, best it will dissipate in a while. The consistency is rich indeed. I only used a pea-size for each application since it can be spread on smoothly and forms a moisturizing film quickly without greasiness. Skin looked subtle glowing then.

 

 

I have high expectation to a hydrating cream, premium brand particularly. At least for temporary, I expect a good moisturizer should be able to quench and refine the skin texture efficiently (since a quality face oil/lotion/serum can achieve this as well) as well as lock in the moisture effectively. For me, this HydraQuench Cream only works on the second part. It did not really inject the moisture into my dehydrated skin for refined skin texture yet it did protect the skin from further moisture loss.

 

In other words, a moisturized skin condition prior the HydraQuench Cream is very crucial in order to achieve optimal hydrating result, else this probably just like a heavy film sitting on top of the skin. Talking about the functional aspect, it sounds no difference with Vaseline or mineral oil. To be fair, of course this is a premium cream, albeit various botanical extracts, it also contains Clarins’s Expertise 3P Complex (e3p) against pollution.

 

After all,  this HydraQuench cream works pretty good with HydraQuench Bi-phase serum. I once applied the serum and cream before Shiseido milky sunblock, sitting 4 hours continuously under a heavy blowing air-conditioner in less humid space, at the end my skin moisture not only had been retained perfectly, but refreshed complexion too. I was quite impressed honestly. 

 

 

Unfortunately, when the skin is unstable and sensitive, it is not comfortable wearing. Moreover, it always highlighted my broken capillaries easily for entire day and did not heal my minor flaky nose as well. If apply thickly, it tends to clog pores. Very touchy for my skin condition.

 

Seriously, if not the expensive price (MYR205/50ml) held me back, I could have given up at the beginning. I tried N times to figure out the best way for my skin condition in the first month, even tried it as hand cream (not better than a hand cream), but eventually took it for neck due to the steep price. Glad it works fine on neck, just not for my problematic face. Despite moisturizing, no other improvement have been noticed concerning it as a neck cream.

 

 
 

content of cream-gel version

 

Besides, I also received a sample of cream-gel version as GWP. The color is slightly peachy and the consistency is light and dewy. It took a while to be fully settled, skin was subtle glowing and non-greasy as though I applied the cream version. Additionally, the refreshing cool sensation waken up the skin instantly, feeling great in sultry weather, but again, definitely not for sensitive skin. Surprisingly my skin was more tolerant with the Cream-gel version, may be I did not try enough. Being a hydrating cream, this Cream-gel was sufficient for my combination skin. For oilier skin, I do not think HydraQuench is meant for sebum control, my skin still gets oily when sebum glands is over-active.

 

As a conclusion, I wish I could be ingredient savvy. After nearly 3 months, I still did not get the right feeling from this HydraQuench cream. The point is, it is not suitable for sensitive skin, it should be for healthy normal-dry skin, with no comedogenic issue.

 

Rating: ….)))       So-so. Will not buy again.

 

HydraQuench Cream 

Ingredients:

Aqua, Glycerin, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Polyacrylamide, Caprylyl glycol, Parfum, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Tocopherol, Laureth-7, Cedrelopsis Grevei Bark Extract, Pentylene glycol, Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate.

 

 

HydraQuench Cooling Cream-Gel

Ingredients:

Aqua/Water/Eau, Alcohol, Glycerin, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tapioca Starch, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Parfum/Fragrance, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmtoyl Proline, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rhodiola  Rosea Root Extract, Polyacrylamide, Laureth-7, Punica Granatum Bark Extract, Cedrelopsis Grevei Bark Extract, Palmitic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Sodium Hyaluronate, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, CI 15985/Yellow 6.

 

 

 

Clarins HydraQuench serum

A hydrolipidic bi-phase formulated serum which restore vitality to most dehydrated skin, even in extreme climates. Rich in omega 3, Inca Peanut oil restores skin’s moisture balance while Katafray extract restores cohesion of the corneal layer to prevent moisture loss, Hyaluronic acid restores water reserves, Service tree bud extract activates skin microcirculation, Alfalfa boosts collagen production, intensively regenerates, firms and minimize premature wrinkles. Claim by Clarins.

 

I had tried the old version 5 years back, which was very emollient, too heavy for my combination skin in humid month, but very effective to retain moisture. So I was hoping the latest bi-phase light version will be even better since it targets dehydrated skin, and basically suitable for all skin types. Also, the bi-phase concept is genius.

 

Clarins HydraQuench serum uncapped

 

Shake well before use to mix the two phases. The serum shown in the above pictures is new and unused, the upper oil phase comprises approximate 20%, and the lower liquid phase is composing approximate 80% of the total. Do get the nozzle close to the palm while pressing because the powerful squirt can hit 1 meter away! No kidding.

 

serum content-under dim light

 

The satin smooth consistency is moisturizing and absorbs rapidly into skin. Though it is quite strongly fragranced but the scent does dissipate after a while. For me, it is more like silky oil that making pores look temporary smaller due to hydration and keep skin very soft and moist. However, when the skin my skin is neither dehydrated nor dried, it tends to be oilier that I could skip the moisturizer before sunscreen. Surely I want something more mattifying in warmer humid month.

 

It performed decently in dry season, not the skin savior though. The serum was capable to heal my minor flaky nose within 3 days (a bit slow compare to Clarins treatment oil), but I was quite disappointed that my skin was still stinging in the afternoon occasionally with this serum on, unless I paired it with moisturizing sunscreen and creamy foundation and strictly no powder makeup. Besides, I also applied this over sunscreen, hoping to soothe the mild tingle, the soothing effect gone within 1/2 hours, I was very disappointed. In addition, it caused mild tingle upon applying on after toning if the skin is ultra sensitive, especially after accidentally over-exfoliation. Based on my experience, that happen to all strong and fragranced product particularly, thus fragrance is surely one of the main culprit to cause the tingle. Meantime I also suspect the chemical sunscreen is the pime culprit since my skin actually worked fine with some fragranced product.

 

serum -content under sunlight

 

Anyhow, the serum didn’t give me comedogenic hassle. Abeilt the genius bi-phase idea, another credit of this hydrating serum is it included antioxidants to against pollution as well. On the other hand, it contains a chemical sunscreen (Benzophenone-4) which I found quite a number of hydrating serum does, in fact many skin care products contain UV absorber and I don’t think this is good for sensitive skin. If this is your concern, you have to carefully examine the ingredient list. Personally I dislike any of my skin care product contains potentially irritating chemical sunscreen.

 

Clarins HydraQuench serum asp

 

Packaging wise, this glass bottle a bit too tall to stand inside the drawer of my vanity table, so it forced to be laid down and crowded with my other stuff,  resulting the gold stripe faded away after some time.

 

I have been using it occasionally on dry patches nearly 5 months now, 1-3 squirts each application depending on the skin condition. Perhaps I expected too much after reading couple good reviews of this, so again, I was quite disappointed actually. Instead of giving it good rating, I do think it is a decent hydrating serum to those with healthy skin and staying long hours in less humid environment, not recommend for very sensitive skin. Paid THB 2125 for 30ml at Bangkok airport duty free.

 

Rating: …)))   Satisfied  Satisfied. Unlikely to buy again.

 

Ingredients:

Aqua, Glycerin, Squalane, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate,  Dipropylene Glycol,  Sodium PCA,  Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil,  Benzophenone-4,   Parfum,  Sodium Chloride,  Tromethamine,  Tocopheryl Acetate,  Ethylhexylglycerin,  Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer,  Xanthan Gum,  Sodium Hyaluronate,  Disodium EDTA,  Chondrus Crispus Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Medicago Sativa Extract, Cedrelopsis Grevei Bark Extract, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,  Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid, Benzyl Benzoate, CI 42090.

 

JUJU Aquamoist mask

Unlike drugstore and cosmetic store in Eastern Asia, Thailand has limited choice of low-priced mask. This Juju Aquamoist priced THB99 per piece, contains no fragrance, no colorant and no mineral oil.  For hydrating, no harm to grab one to try, hoping to reap abundant hydration for my thirsty skin.

 

The mask sheet is fully loaded with 20ml generous hydrating essence, it fits and fixes my face perfectly. I left it to 30 minutes while I took a nap in hotel room, woke up with proper soft and moisturized skin. Then used the damp mask for body wiping. No rinse-off needed, just followed with sunblock and makeup.  Not forget to mention the clear and silky essence soaked into skin right away.

 

JUJU aquamoist mask sheet

 

I’m not a sheet mask worshiper, except quality-designed mask, best if with impressive formula. Unfortunately, in most cases the quality always comes with higher price point as well. For a drugstore sheet mask, all I can hope is temporary hydrating result, perhaps brightening effect from whitening mask.

 

Looking at the ingredient list and personal experience, I think the Juju Aquamoist Moisturizing Face Mask is suitable to oilier skin for instant yet temporary skin hydration. If you ask more than that, honestly this is not your best option.

 

Rating: ….)))  Satisfied  Satisfied. Unlikely to buy again.

 

Ingredients:

Water, Butylene Glycol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Betaine Polyglyceryl-2Oleate, Triethylhexanoin, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Arginine, Carbomer, Cyclomethicone, Sodium Citrate, Ethylparaben, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol.

 

El ANR eye complex

Eye cream sample is truly loveable. First, we don’t normally test eye cream directly on eye contour at beauty counter, thus sample is crucial. Secondly, eye cream always comes with smaller size which costs as much as moisturizer, hence, eventhough the sample size already save big sum of money. Imagine I only bought a low cost Skin Food eye cream for entire year 2009! Thankfully I received quite a number of eye cream samples via my beauty hauls last year.

 

El ANR eye complex2

 

I’ve tried this ANR Eye Complex in sample size previously and I was given this sample again last year. Hereby I write a detailed review about this eye complex. As you can see from above picture, it has gel-like consistency, moisturizing and small dots needed for each eye. It temporary smoothes the fine lines and leaves a thin layer of silky smooth film. Depends on quantity I used, the more I applied the longer time for it to settle the non-greasy film.

 

El ANR eye complex3

 

The Advanced Night Repair Eye Recovery Complex has no artificial fragrance added, but it has signature scent of Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair, which I never found it offensive. In fact I love the scent. For elusive reason, sometimes it caused temporary warm/burning sensation upon applying it, yet it shown no irritation sign from my patch test, nor on my eye contour. It also contains low hazardous chemical sunscreen ingredient (Polysilicone-11), thus it can be used in day as well, causing no problem to my eye make-up.

 

Using this day and night, the 5ml sample lasted me about 1.5 months. It retails THB2200 for 15ml, I would be happy to have this free, but not to the extent I’ll pay for it, after all it never improved my trickiest fine lines. I’m still searching the ideal one for both moisturizing and anti-aging treatment.

 

Ingredients:

Water (Aqua Purificata) Purified, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Bidifa Ferment Lysate, Isopentydiol, Petrolatum, Sucrose, Isoprypyl Jojobate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Trehalose, Betula Alba (Birch) Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Algae Extract, Yeast Extract (Faex), Caffeine, Morus Nigra (Mulberry) Root Extract, Cholesterol, Sodium RNA, Linoleic Acid, Hodrogenated Lecithin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Sulfate, Dimethicone Copolyol, Phytosphingosine, Butylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Squalane, Jojoba Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 40, Isohexadecane, Tromethamine, BHT, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Iron Oxides.

 

 

 

What if you realize no body cleanser/soap in bathroom while showering? As the mayor made an emergency call to power puff girls, the bubble has rescued me. This is it.

 

Squeezing the Kose Sekkisei Supreme washing cream on net sponge, add some water, squeeze the sponge…

 

 

 

This cleansed the body skin as well as facial skin, skin may be slightly drying in less humid environment, and the fragrance dissipated in short while. That happen just in case of emergency, but those bubbles really cheered me up.

 

Excuse me….

 

LA~LA~LA~LA~LA~…

 

Kawaii Tokyo, a skin care series that available at Sasa store. Both product manufacturing and expiry date are also clearly indicated on packaging, hence the product age will be transparent to consumer. I tested the textures of the product line at store and finally decided to get the sunblock, something I would surely use.

 

 

According to the product label, this included ingredients of brightening (Vitamin C Derivatives, Alpha-arbutin), anti-aging (Vitamin A, B2, B3), moisturizing (Hyaluronic Acid, Olive Squalane), pore care (Witch Hazel Extract) and anti-inflammation (Platinum Nano-colloid, Licorice Extract). This is also free of alcohol and animal-based ingredients, water-resistant. Normally I will not go for a sunblock with too much skin care ingredient, especially those with chemical sunscreen ingredient, but this is mineral sunblock so that is fine to me.

 

 

Shake well before use. The milky consistency has kind of unpleasant plastic/chemical odor upon applying it, but it dissipated in few seconds, so that not a big problem. It is easy to spread over and leaves hardly noticeable white residue. But, having said that, due to drier skin condition in mid day, it leaves heavy white residue during re-application that required carefully blending. However the white residue would gradually fade off in few minutes, leaving skin glossy and luminuous. Generally it has no coverage, but less visible skin imperfection can be expected due to light-diffusing capacity. No greasiness but slight tacky right after application. Normally I either satisfied with the dewy radiance skin or take it as make up base.

 

 Left:  bare skin      Right: with Kawaii Tokyo UV Blocker

 

Despite its thick texture, it is not exactly moisturizing. If I did not prepare a proper moisture base underneath, skin will feel tight as though it clings onto skin tightly. When applied thickly or wore something heavy underneath in humid days, it gave me 1-2 clog pores at the end of the day.  Therefore I think it may be best suitable for normal, combination and dry skin without dehydration issue.

 

 

As you can seen from above attached picture, the pressure in the plastic tube was causing the content oozed out by itself when newly-opened. That was quite wasteful in first few days. Still, I pleased with it overall because it is not an easy task to find a well-rounded mineral sunscreen at affordable price, especially I do not fancy online purchase. This costed me MYR75/40ml during the promotion, normal retail is MYR90 or HKD210.

 

Rating: ….)))     Good. Willing to buy again.

 

Ingredients:

Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Zinc Oxide, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Titanium Dioxide, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycerin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Squalane, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Tocopherol, Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate, Niacinamide, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-arbutin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Retinyl Palmitate, Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Bicarbonate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Platinum Powder, Silver.

 

Muji Makeup base

There was a time I love ardently with anything marked for sensitive skin. Muji makeup base comes with  UV protection, fragrance free, contains no mineral oil and no UV absorbant. Instead of using it for makeup, I treat this as tinted moisturizer.

 

Muji Makeup base1

 

I don’t have oily skin and spend most of my time in air-conditioned environment, sometimes skin condition varied from combination to dry or severely dehydrated within few hours according to the environment. Oilier skin moment can be easily tackled by patting loose powder on, while sudden dehydrated skin certainly need something moisturizing, and any powder is NO. Then this Muji makeup base serves as good foundation in the situation.

 

Muji Makeup base2

 

The thick and moisturizing consistency reminds me of Korea BB cream in fact. Indeed, the finish of this Muji make up base is also quite close to BB cream. No remarkably coverage, skin looks subtle brighten up and more even up. Small amount needed for natural radiance finish due to the moisturizing consistency, applied too much possibly comedogenic for my combination skin and end up with “Gasper” skin, partly adding up with the white residue of sunblock.

 

Left side: Bare skin   Right side: with Muji MU base

 

After dabbing Muji pressed powder on both sides 

 

Because it’s quite moisturizing for oily to normal skin, so it’s also not ideal for sebum controlling. It also didn’t cause me breakout since I use it occasionally only, but sometimes 1-2 clog pores if I used heavy moisturizer underneath.

 

In my opinion, MUJI Make up base for sensitive skin is gentle and comfortable to use  although it used up quickly and not moisture enough for drier skin. For THB595/30g, this is worth to re-purchase if I want a tinted moisturizer in summer.

 

Rating: ….)))  Good  Good. May buy again.

 

Ingredients:

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, BG, Dimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroylglutamate, Lauroyl Lysine, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Sodium Glutamate, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-2Isostearate, Talc, Phenoxyethanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Diiostearyl Malate, (+/-) Mica, Methicon Zinc Oxide, Titanium Oxide, Iron Oxide, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Aluminum Hydroxide.

 


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My apology

Hi, many things have been keeping my mind and time occupied these days, thus I need more time to response to all comments. Please bear with me, thank you.

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My Skin Profile

Sensitive, combination skin type, visible blood vessels, freckles, easily dehydrated, dry and having fine line undereye, occasional breakout, visible aging pores.

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